You have just unboxed a hand-forged Viking sword or a hand-carved shield from Orion Krafts. The steel catches the light. The woodgrain feels solid under your palm. Now comes the part most buyers overlook entirely: keeping it that way.
High-carbon steel is not stainless. Wood breathes and reacts to humidity. Leather stretches, dries, and cracks if left untreated. A Viking weapon that receives no care will show rust, warping, or surface damage within months — not years. This guide is built on what we actually do at Orion Krafts before a blade leaves our workshop, and what we recommend to every customer who wants their piece to last decades.
Understanding Your Materials
Before getting into specific routines, it helps to understand why each material behaves the way it does.
High-Carbon Steel (Sword Blades)
High-carbon steel holds a sharp edge far better than stainless, but it oxidises faster. Even a single fingerprint left on an unprotected blade can leave a rust mark within 24 to 48 hours in humid conditions. The oils from your skin are mildly acidic. In a dry climate like the American Southwest, you have more forgiveness. In a coastal or tropical environment, you have almost none. The rule is simple: any time you handle the blade, clean it afterward.
Wood (Shield Boards and Handles)
Viking shields are typically built from linden, poplar, or pine — lightweight woods that absorb shock well but are sensitive to moisture swings. Wood expands when humid and contracts when dry. Rapid cycling between the two states causes splitting along the grain, especially at joins and around metal boss rivets. Central heating in winter is one of the most damaging environments for wooden shields because it pulls humidity aggressively out of the air and the wood alike.
Leather (Grips, Straps, and Sheaths)
Leather is a natural material that dries, stiffens, and eventually cracks without conditioning. Long-term storage in a leather sheath is one of the most common mistakes we see. Leather traps moisture against the blade and promotes rust from the inside out. It looks protective. It is not.
Viking Sword Care: Step-by-Step
After Every Handling Session
This takes under five minutes and prevents the most common damage.
- Wear clean cotton or nitrile gloves before picking up the blade, or wipe it down immediately after bare-handed handling.
- Use a soft lint-free cloth — microfibre works well — to wipe the full length of the blade from ricasso to tip, following the edge direction.
- Apply a very thin coat of blade oil. Renaissance Wax, Ballistol, or pure mineral oil all work well. Avoid WD-40 for long-term protection; it is a water displacer, not a true rust preventative.
- Wipe off any excess. A greasy blade attracts dust, which traps moisture against the steel.
- Wipe down the crossguard and pommel with the same cloth. Metal fittings rust too.
Monthly Deep Inspection
Once a month, take the sword out of storage and inspect it under good light.
- Look along the flat of the blade from the tip toward the guard. Surface rust appears as orange or brown spots. Caught early, it polishes out easily with a light abrasive like 0000 steel wool and fresh oil. Left for months, it pits the steel permanently.
- Check the handle for any looseness where it meets the guard. A handle that moves is a safety issue if the sword is ever used.
- Inspect the edge for chips or rolled sections. For display swords, this is cosmetic. For functional pieces, take it to a professional sharpener or use a whetstone at the correct angle for the blade geometry.
Storage: What Actually Works
The ideal storage environment for a Viking sword is dry, stable, and away from direct sunlight. UV light breaks down oils and can bleach handle materials over time.
For display, a horizontal or angled wall rack with padded arms works well. Keep the blade oiled and inspect it every few weeks. For long-term storage without display, wrap the oiled blade loosely in a silicone-treated gun cloth or acid-free paper. Never use bubble wrap directly against steel — it traps humidity.
Viking Shield Care: Step-by-Step
Cleaning the Wood Surface
Dust your shield regularly with a dry soft brush or cloth. If it needs a deeper clean — for example, after outdoor use at a living history event — use a cloth that is barely damp with clean water. Wipe in the direction of the grain, then dry it immediately and completely with a second dry cloth. Do not let water sit on the surface.
Oiling the Wood
Two to three times a year — more often if you live in a dry climate or use central heating — apply a thin coat of raw linseed oil or Danish oil to the wooden face and back of the shield. Work it in with a lint-free cloth in circular motions, then buff off the excess after 15 to 20 minutes. Do not let oil pool on the surface or soak into any leather facing, as it can darken and soften the leather unevenly.
If your shield has a painted face, use a wax-based product like Renaissance Wax instead of oil, as oil can lift or cloud certain paint binders. Test on an inconspicuous edge first.
Caring for the Shield Boss and Metal Fittings
The iron or steel boss at the centre of your shield needs the same treatment as your sword blade. Wipe it down, oil it lightly, and check the rivets periodically. Loose rivets allow the boss to flex and crack the surrounding wood. Tightening them is straightforward with a small hammer and backing block.
Conditioning the Leather Grip and Straps
Apply a leather conditioner such as Leather Honey or Pecard Leather Dressing to the grip and arm straps every three to four months. Work a small amount in with your fingers and let it absorb fully before use. Well-conditioned leather stays supple and is far less likely to snap under tension during handling or combat practice.
Storage and Display
Hang your shield vertically on a wall rather than storing it flat. Flat storage, particularly on a hard floor or shelf, creates pressure points and can cause warping over months. If you must store it horizontally, support it evenly across its full width.
Keep shields away from radiators, fireplaces, and exterior walls that experience temperature swings. An interior wall in a room that stays at a consistent temperature is ideal. Aim for relative humidity between 45% and 55% if you can control it. A small room humidifier in winter makes a genuine difference.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
- Storing a blade in a leather sheath long-term. The sheath traps moisture. For storage, the blade should be wrapped in an oiled cloth or silicone gun cloth, not sheathed.
- Using WD-40 as a rust preventative. It displaces water well but evaporates and leaves the steel unprotected within days. Use a proper blade oil.
- Putting a shield in the attic or garage. Temperature and humidity swings in uninsulated spaces are extreme. Both will damage wood and leather rapidly.
- Ignoring early surface rust. A spot of rust the size of a pinhead takes two minutes to address. Left for six months, it becomes a pit that cannot be fully removed.
- Over-oiling. More oil is not better. Excess oil on a blade collects dust, which holds moisture. Excess oil on wood can raise the grain and cause tackiness.
A Quick-Reference Maintenance Schedule
Use this as a reminder checklist:
- After every handling: wipe blade with clean cloth, apply thin oil coat, wipe off excess.
- Monthly: full inspection of blade and fittings for rust, looseness, or damage.
- Every 3–4 months: condition leather grips and straps on sword and shield.
- 2–3 times per year: oil the wooden shield body with linseed or Danish oil.
- Annually: professional sharpening for functional swords; full review of all metal fittings.
Built to Last — With the Right Care
Every piece at Orion Krafts is made by hand using traditional techniques and quality materials. The steel, the wood, the leather — they are built to last. But they are not maintenance-free. Twenty minutes of care spread across a year is genuinely all it takes to keep a Viking sword in exceptional condition for decades.
If you have questions about caring for a specific piece — or want advice before purchasing — our team is happy to help. Browse our collection of handforged Viking swords and authentic Viking shields at Orion Krafts, and buy knowing that with a little attention, your Norse weapon will outlast you.
Explore Quality Viking Weapons at Orion Krafts
At Orion Krafts, our collection of handforged Viking swords and authentic Viking shields are crafted for durability and beauty. Proper care will help you enjoy these masterpieces for years to come.
Related Resources
For more information on Viking weaponry and culture, explore these blogs:
- Viking Swords History and Craftsmanship
- Choosing the Perfect Viking Shield
- Symbolism Behind Viking Shield Designs
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The caring for Viking sword and shield is a rewarding practice that preserves the legacy and craftsmanship of Norse weaponry. Visit Orion Krafts today to explore our collection and learn more about maintaining your Viking treasures.


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